Mushroom season in Mexico – with a French twist

When yet again wild mushrooms are hitting the markets of central Mexico. Listed here in the cash, the thirty day period of August is peak fungus time. An remarkable, colorful wide range of them are obtainable, generally culled from the wilds of the states of Mexico, Hidalgo, Morelos and Puebla. Some, like the yellow duraznillos, the grayish clavitos or the spongy morillas, correspond closely to such Euro- appreciated and higher priced treasures as chanterelles and morels.  As a curious food writer and newbie chef I am compelled and encouraged to invest in and prepare dinner.

The French Girl, with whom I often trek to the San Juan market, waxed nostalgic there a several times in the past, on spying piles of morels. “Ou la la”, she moaned, “if only we have been in Paree correct now…” A tear rolled down her cheek. You see, her dad’s most loved Parisian cafe Moissonier, serves his and her most loved dish – poulet aux morilles. “I’ll make it for you”, I supplied hesitantly, fearful about the possibly self-defeating challenge of cooking French for the French.

To shore up my self-assurance, I referred to as up some regional kitchen-addict good friends and with each other we concocted a five class all-mushroom feast for 12. The French Girl was delighted – “just like home”, she exclaimed, delicately licking the last drop of creamy morel-infused sauce from her plate with her pinky.

Chef Lesley Téllez made a decision to keep us grounded in nuestra tierra by whipping up a tinga de setas to serve as a botana. It was pure Mexican, with a modern day twist – pleasantly chewy threads of meaty mushroom augmented by a mildly spiky chile-infused salsa, served as rolled up tacos. She, becoming the atypical Mexicana, was in truth prepared to share her recipe, which I include things like, underneath.

Chef Nora Bielak, on the other hand, made a decision to take the French bull by the horns and threw with each other an stylish carpaccio de hongos, basic slivers of a large, Alice in Wonderland-like mushroom referred to as pambazo (in France c’est un cèpe) dressed with the finest olive oil you can get and sprinkled with chopped hazelnuts. Her pièce de résistance nevertheless was the galette de hongos silvestres. An spectacular rectangular pie of flaky, buttery crust reveals a payload of sautéed fungi. It tastes like butter, Julia Baby-like in quantity, goes into this loaded savory. Her recipe follows.

Chef Daniel, who is both a qualified chef and French, introduced two mushroom-considerably less desserts, a cherry clafouti and a textbook excellent praline-laden apple tart.

My contribution was the aforementioned rooster with morels. Of course, I have been to Moissonier myself and if I need to say so, my variation of this Lyonnais traditional did in truth hit all the marks. It’s not as tough to make as you could imagine. Try it. Drag out your aged Piaf LPs and invite an individual French. They’ll really like you eternally.

Tinga de Setas

(Oyster mushrooms in tomato-chipotle sauce)
Can make about three cups

This is a vegetarian variation on the typical Mexican tinga, which ordinarily phone calls for shredded rooster or beef, in a smoky, tomato-chipotle sauce. The oyster mushrooms, sliced into strips, are organization and hearty — you definitely don’t pass up the meat. Employing contemporary tomatoes helps make a difference. I haven’t tried this dish applying canned, but the strategy in this article is to produce a little something smooth and brilliant, not acidic.

three tablespoons neutral oil, such as safflower
1/2 medium onion, diced
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 lb or about 500g ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 lb or about 500g setas (oyster mushrooms), sliced into strips

2 canned chipotles in adobo, or to style, chopped
Salt to style

Heat a several tablespoons of oil in a major-bottomed skillet over medium-higher warmth. When warm, increase onion and garlic and stir promptly. (Reduce the flame if garlic starts off to burn.) Cook right until onion is translucent, three to 5 minutes. Stir in diced tomatoes. Cover and prepare dinner right until the tomatoes commence to break down and soften, about one more 5 minutes. Stir often so the tomatoes don’t adhere to the pan.

When the tomatoes are sufficiently smooth, stir in mushrooms, earning sure they’re mixed as a lot as achievable with the juicy tomatoey bits. Reduce the flame to medium, protect and prepare dinner for 7 to 10 minutes, right until mushrooms are tender and no more time rubbery.
Eliminate from flame and stir in chipotle to style, and then salt.

Provide with warm corn tortillas.

Gallette of wild mushrooms

The dough: pate brisée with herbs

2 ½ cups flour

½ teaspoon salt

12 ½ tablespoons (180g) butter reduce in cubes

¼ cup cold h2o

1 teaspoon contemporary rosemary, finely chopped

½ teaspoon contemporary thyme, finely chopped

1 teaspoon contemporary marjoram, finely chopped


½ lb (200g) requesón or ricotta cheese

5 oz (150g) blue cheese (if it is quite potent, use a very little considerably less)

2 ¼ lb (1kg) mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

2 oz (50g) pancetta, diced

three scallions, chopped, which includes the inexperienced component

three shallots, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 branch contemporary rosemary

1 branch contemporary thyme

2 tablespoons cooking oil, such as safflower

2 tablespoons butter

1 cup dark beer

1 egg, beaten

Salt and pepper

Get ready the dough:

In a food processor, increase all the ingredients except the h2o. ‘Pulse’ various situations right until you see balls of dough the measurement of a pea. Add the ice h2o very little by very little right until it kinds a large ball. Empty the contents on to a evenly floured workspace and form a thick disk with the dough. Cover with plastic and chill for at least an hour.

Get ready the mushroom filling:

In a large frying pan at medium warmth set a tablespoon of butter and 1 of oil. When warm, increase the pancetta and sauté right until golden. Add the scallions and shallot and when they change clear, increase the garlic. Stir and fry for a moment or two. Empty into a bowl and return the pan to the flame, boosting the warmth, and, if needed, including far more oil and butter. Sauté the mushrooms, very little by very little, becoming watchful not to set way too a lot into the pan at a time, or they will steam instead of fry. When wilted, blend the mushrooms with the scallion combination. Return contents to the pan, and increase the herbs and beer. Cook right until liquid evaporates. Established aside to neat.

Get ready the cheeses:
In a little bowl, mash the two cheeses with a fork right until smooth and mixed.

Assemble the gallette:

Preheat the oven to one hundred ninety C (375 F)

On a floured area, roll out the dough about 3mm thick (as for thin crust pizza) and to the wanted form – it can be spherical or rectangular. Roll out the cheese combination on to the dough leaving a border of 1 ½” (three cm). Then protect with the mushroom combination. Fold the borders inward. Brush on the beaten egg.

Bake on a greased cookie sheet for 35 minutes or right until the dough is golden.

Cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Poulet aux Morilles

This dish is from the Rhône location of France, i.e. Lyon. Traditionally it is built with vin jaune, or ‘yellow wine’ which will come from Jura. But even if you could locate this wine exterior France it would be outside of your funds and mine. Just use any wonderful dry wine dry vermouth functions very well.

250 gm (1/2 lb.) contemporary morels (morillas in Mexico), rinsed and promptly dried – a salad spinner functions excellent for this

1 large rooster, reduce into serving measurement items, breast in 4, leg and thigh divided. Reserve the back for one more use

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup (200 gm) crème fraiche (crème fraiche is considerably less bitter than our Mexican ‘crema’ or American bitter product –if you just can’t locate it, substitute half crema or bitter product and half whipping product)

4 tablespoons butter

1 large or 2 little shallots, 2 tablespoons finely chopped

1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed into 2 tablespoons cold h2o

Salt and pepper


– In a major casserole over medium warmth, soften half the butter and brown the rooster, a several items at a time, on all sides set aside.

-Add the morels to the similar casserole. Cook at higher warmth for three-5 minutes, stirring to avert burning, right until tender. Eliminate to a bowl.

-Add the wine, de-glazing the bottom by scraping with a picket spoon and convey to light-weight boil right until the alcohol burns off, 2-three minutes. Return rooster to casserole with ½ cup h2o. Reduce warmth and simmer, coated, turning the rooster from time to time.

-Right after thirty minutes, get rid of a breast piece and reduce into it: if it is finished (i.e. white to the core), get rid of the breasts and depart the thighs and legs to prepare dinner 10 minutes far more. When far more, get rid of rooster to a ceramic bowl and protect to keep warm.

-Add product and mushrooms to the pot, stirring with a wire whisk or a fork, bringing to a slow bubbly simmer. If the sauce is quite thin, you may possibly want to thicken it at this issue with cornstarch. Increase the warmth make sure the cornstarch is absolutely dissolved in the h2o whisk it into the sauce, stirring right until the sauce starts off to thicken and carry on to whisk at medium warmth for 2 or three minutes. Add the rooster, simmering right until it is re-heated by way of. Taste, adjusting salt and pepper. Provide over wide buttered pasta such as tagliatelle or egg noodles.

Serves 6-eight

This submit was at first published in 2011

Mexico Town

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